April is the month of the Diamond. These strong and sought after gems are the namesake of my favorite surfboard in the Jule Collection line. Mollusk Surf Shop in San Francisco currently has a 9'4 and 8'8 Diamond model in stock, which Jed Noll has meticulously shaped with stability, noseriding, and classic longboarding in mind. Each beauty is glassed for strength and durability, making the diamond a board you are proud to own for a lifetime. If you are looking for a new board this spring/summer, check out the ones at Mollusk and feel free to contact me with any questions or to try a demo board. I can also work with you to order a custom Diamond in a different color/length (3 month turnaround time). This board works great at all longboard spots and is designed for someone 5'4 - 6'0 tall x 100lbs - 160lbs. Shine on!
Surfer's Ear
I have been out of the water for a couple weeks recovering from Surfer's ear surgery. What is Surfers ear? I wish it was some keen new sense I gained from surfing that gave me special powers to discern wave speed and conditions. But, it's not that rad. Why couldn't surfing have transformed my body and given me gills or webbed fingers instead? Here's the skinny on Surfer's Ear.
"Surfer's ear" or as it is medically known - "exostosis of the external auditory canal"- is a condition of bone growth in the ear canal caused by the cooling effect of cold water and wind. Cooling of the ear canal stimulates bone production by the cells that line the ear canal, and when extensive both growth occurs, the ear canal narrows and can easily become blocked by trapped water and ear wax (gross!). The growth of bone in the ear canal takes place over many years and can be lessened by wearing ear plugs and or a neoprene hood when surfing.
Basically, my ear was trying to protect itself and growing to cover the canal from the cold wind and water. I should have been wearing ear plugs all along, especially those evening sessions at Pleasure Point.
The surgery was painless thanks to Dr. Douglas Hetzler in Santa Cruz. He is the man when it comes to Surfers ear. Thanks to him I can hear better and life is almost back to normal... only a few more days out of the water.
Women on Waves Exhibit at the California Surf Museum
The Women on Waves exhibit on display at the California Surfing Museum is no small feat. (published on Surfline June 2, 2010- Note: The exhibit is now over) It traces the 300-year lineage from the surfing queens of Hawaiian myth and history to the newly-crowned women's surfing champions of the 21st Century.
The exhibit is about how women's surfing has evolved from something that was taboo to the current, ultra-high-performance level as practiced by gals such as Steph Gilmore, Keala Kennelly, Maya Gabeira and Layne Beachley.
Three of the 40+ panels on display at Women on Waves show one of Lisa Andersen's boards next to an original pair of Roxy boardshorts - the trunks that launched an industry. Next to that is a tribute to Blue Crush featuring Sanoe Lake's board. And off in the distance, Sarah Gerhardt's Mavericks special.
There was a time when most women took to the waves only in the company of a gentleman, because boards were heavy and taboos were strict about what women could expose when they went into the water.
In 1914, Isabel Letham defied her father when she went tandem surfing with Duke Kahanamoku, and defied Victorian culture when she wore a risqué "Canadian" swim costume which was made for performance more than prudence.
Eighty years later, Lisa Andersen didn't like how her behind looked in a bikini -- and also didn't like worrying about her two-piece suit coming off in contests -- so she innovated a pair of performance women's surf trunks that revolutionized the surf industry.
In between, Women on Waves shows how women's surfing and women's beach fashion paralleled each other, as women of the 20th Century crossed a line in the sand and took to the waves, and wanted to wear bathing-suits that went against the grain of the times -- and in so doing had a major influence on changing what women wore in the ocean.
Women's-performance influenced fashion and vice versa, and Women on Waves also details the ascent of women's surfing from a time when women could barely lift the heavy hardwood boards of the early 20th Century -- to now, when women surfers are going bigger, faster and deeper on modern equipment.
And that modern equipment was also influenced by women surfers such as Darrilyn Zanuck, whose need for a shorter, lighter hardwood surfboard in the late 1940s inspired Joe Quigg to make "The Darrylin Board" which is considered by many to be the Eve of the modern shortboard.
Women on Waves was put together by Jim Kempton, Julie Cox, Jane Schmauss and Tara Torburn at the California Surf Museum in Oceanside, with help from Ben Marcus and many of the women and shapers featured in the exhibit. The exhibit consists of more than 40 panels -- from ancient Hawaii to Steph Gilmore -- with photos and three dimensional displays of famous surfboards, swimwear and other icons and jetsam from women's surfing history.
The exhibit includes more than 35 surfboards, from the kind of alaia ridden by Princess Ka'iulani, to the board Bethany Hamilton was paddling when she was attacked by a shark on the island of Kauai.
Shelley Merrick
The surfing world lost a surf legend on January 8th, 2015. Shelley Merrick was a mother, grandmother and dedicated surfer late into her 60s when she passed away from a stroke. Shelley was one of the early Board Members of the Surfrider Foundation, she lobbied for a women's division in the Malibu Surfing Association Classic, and many people admired her grace on the water and land. I looked up to her lifelong dedication to surfing. She would surf Leo Carrillo in the morning and then get dressed in her business attire and head in to work as the Executive Director of the Strawberry Festival in Oxnard. When I was in high school, Shelley taught me about artificial reefs and helped me write my senior thesis on the topic. Since then, she gave me career and life advice and we kept in touch via email. We got to see each other in 2010 at the "Girl in the Curl" women's surf conference at Pepperdine University. I'm so lucky to have known her. "Hang Ten and Call me in the Morning", is a great article about Shelley's surfing life published August 27, 2008.
Bolinas Group Surf Session
On January 4th, 2015, we kicked off the new year with a few surf students during a group lesson in Bolinas. Bolinas is a great beginner-intermediate spot north of SF about an hour's drive. It was sunny, 1-2', with mushy waves, and for the first 45 minutes we were the only ones in the water! Everyone caught a couple of waves, worked on wave timing, paddling, paddling and more paddling. We enjoyed the company and beautiful scenery of the area. So much fun! Click here for more about group lessons.
Happy New Year!
With the holidays recently gone, many of us have been living in the present moments, focused on enjoying family and friends. Making meals, warming by a cozy fire, traveling to a favorite getaway or to see family. As the new year starts to unfold, we've taken some time to reflect on the past and bring on fresh goals for the coming year. Along with new personal and work goals, I usually have a general "surf more" resolution. Work, family, time with friends, and excuses about the imperfect surf conditions can keep me out of the water. But whenever I've been surfing, I always feel refreshed, invigorated, and like I've made the most of my day. I love that feeling and want more of that in 2015! I am making a plan to get out of the house in the mornings and surf at least 3 times/week, no matter the conditions.
What are your goals for 2015?
If "surf more" is one of them and you'd like some accountability and encouragement along the way, I'm offering a package of 6 lessons for $800. Each package includes a surf journal for creatively recording your sessions and six 2 hr surf sessions with me. Each package also includes at least 6 photos of you in action. Lessons can be scheduled 2 times per month to spread it out, or all in a row, however you like. Contact me here if you're interested in package lessons.
Whatever you hope to achieve this year, may your year be filled with health, happiness, love, and surf! - Julie
Winter Rain
It has been a rainy winter so far in Nor Cal. I'm stoked because we need it! I'm bummed because the runoff and overflowing water treatment plants empty into the ocean making for dirty water with high bacteria levels. A good rule of tumb is to wait 72 hours after storms to surf again. I have gotten sick from dirty water in years past, but also have been fine after rainstorms. It is a tough call, but probably best not to risk getting sick. If in doubt, don't go out. You can "mind surf" and do some yoga instead!
Malibu
Malibu's Surfrider Beach is one of the best waves in California and a spot I grew up surfing. Early in September 2014, I had the opportunity to surfing in the annual Malibu Surfing Association Classic, one of my favorite contests of the year. This year a hurricane produced 4-6 foot waves at 1st Point in sunny and glassy conditions. Best of all, only a handful of girls are in the water during the heats, so you have the wave all to yourself. Malibu breaks over a sand-and-rock bottom and produces a beautiful right-breaking wave. The wave reels for 100 yards, which gives plenty of time to let your surfing style shine through. I placed 5th in my division (Women ages 30-39)and had fun in each heat surfing the racy sections, hanging five, and wearing only a Seea bikini in the warm water. The MSA event is always a great time visiting with old friends and watching great surfing.
I hope everyone caught some waves this summer and perhaps the best are still to come as the waves have been non-stop here in California. If you're interested in a coaching session, shoot me an email and let's set up a time to get in the water together.
Photo: Julie Cox hanging five by Hollie Trosper
Cross Training for Surfing
One of the great things about surfing is that you're getting a workout OUTSIDE of a gym!
You're in the beautiful outdoors smelling seaweed and salty air while watching birds dive for their dinner. Your gym is the great outdoors and there are so many ways to take advantage of it.
Although paddling and riding waves does provide a great aerobic workout, strength training, and Vitamin D, there are 3 great activities you can do to improve your surfing while on land.
Ten minutes of yoga every morning: Stretch out that tight neck and shoulders, loosen the lower back, and get your balance practice on. Yoga is my go-to practice for pre- and post-surf remedy. Go to You Tube and get your daily dose.
Take a hike: If you live in Santa Cruz or in the Bay Area, you know how many killer hikes we have in our backyards It is insane! You could find a new hike everyday for 365 days and still be discovering new trails. Hiking is great for straightening legs, back, torso, and and for aerobics.
Biking: So good for your quads and back! You'll be doing much stronger turns and will be able to noseride for longer periods of time if your legs are strong. Again, with so many trails and paths in the area, it is awesome!
Where do I surf?
Choosing where to paddle out can be the make or break decision of your day. Paddling out at the right spot can have you feeling like a wave magnet, in the groove, and stoked on your session. Paddling out in the wrong place can be a frustrating and demoralizing experience. The waves can look good from the beach, but then back off as you try to catch them, the crowd might be too thick, or the currents too strong. Recently, I paddled out in the middle of a really crowded spot with a current pulling north. It looked good from the beach, but every wave I tried to catch had 3 people already going for it and many more in the way as I dropped in. It was dangerous, I was tired of fighting the current to stay in position, and I was super annoyed with my session. After 45 minutes of struggling, I got out of the water and decided to give it one more chance at a peak I noticed breaking 100 yards away. Sure enough, I caught a nice waist high right and discovered my stoke.
Find those certain peaks and surf spots that work for you and surf them often. You'll become a better surfer by knowing where to go and though you may have to jump in the car for an adventure, it will be worth the effort.
Kickout!
The best way to end your wave is to KICKOUT! Think about how you end your waves. Do you jump or fall off? Do you surf all the way to the beach until your fins hit the sand? Do you even think about stopping or ending your ride with control? Well, you should! Think about getting off of the wave by pivoting your body toward the horizon. When you're done with the wave: 1. Put most of your weight on your back foot to stall. 2. Think about your arms and hands leading you to the horizon. 3. Instead of riding in toward the sand, watch the nose of your board go toward the "outside" and you'll be off the wave. 4. Get back down on to the board and paddle back out for more. Try it out!
Photo of Julie after kicking out at Ocean Beach by Stephen Amato
Tips to Stay Warm While Cold Water Surfing
Six Tricks to Stay Warm While Coldwater Surfing
Photo: Surfer Julie Cox steps out in Pacifica; photo by Paul Ferraris Photography
Surfing is a full body workout. You need the upper body strength to paddle out and into waves, push up power to pop to your feet, strong legs to pump and turn, and healthy lungs for the inevitable wipe outs. And as if that's not enough, you need stamina and endurance to rinse and repeat the whole cycle a few times over. It may sound like a lot, but the exhilaration and the sense of accomplishment from a successful surf sesh more than recompense.
And here's the game changer: there's no need to fear the Bay's frigid waters. A few extra steps before and after your surf will keep you protected against the chill. So put aside the anxiety and excuses and paddle out. It's a new year and it's high time to make it about the new surfing you. And on the days that the surf isn't any good (whether too big, too small, or too windy), head over to Aquatic Park for a swim. The same tips apply—even if your wetsuit disqualifies you from joining the Dolphin Club.
1. Invest in good neoprene (and lots of it)
To get ahead of the temperature game, a well-fitting, highly functioning wetsuit is a must. But in the world of wetsuits, thicker isn't always better. 5mm neoprene often restricts movement and makes paddling more difficult. For SF waters, thePatagonia R3 front-zip wetsuit works year-round but needs the addition of a hood and booties for the colder months. When it comes to booties, don't skimp on the thickness because the old adage holds true in the ocean: if your feet are cold, you are cold.
2. Change in the car
This step may sound silly (and a little difficult). But changing in the car in a warm micro-climate sets you up for later success. Baring all in the cold weather very easily dampens spirits and leads to a case of the shivers that are hard to shake. Although figuring out the seamless deck change in a reclined passenger seat is tricky to master, it's one of the most valuable maneuvers in a surfer's game.
3. Pour hot water into your suit before hitting the waves
Cold water that enters a wetsuit takes time to warm up from the body's heat. Eliminate that bone-chilling period by filling your suit in the parking lot with heated water from the Bully's Hot Water Rinse tank. The insulated tank keeps water warm from your house to the beach and even throughout your surf session (so remember to bring another jug for a post-session warm up).
4. Ride a larger board
Buoyancy is your best friend in cold water situations. The less you are submerged, the less cold water pours into your suit, making you miserable. By riding bigger and thicker boards, you're able to stay afloat and out of the cold stuff (for the most part). It also helps that the bigger boards like longboards are the best kind of surfboard for the beginning surfer.
5. Keep moving
This sounds like a no-brainer but it's amazing how often surfers become sitting ducks in between waves. You may think you're conserving energy but instead you're growing stiffer and inviting in more of the cold. It's best to keep paddling (even if it's in circles) to keep the blood flowing and to keep the water inside the wetsuit warm.
6. Dry hair, won't care
After shredding the gnar, hurry back to the car to begin the lengthy process of peeling off the various layers of neoprene. The first piece to go is the hood. Once it's pulled off, wrap your hair in a super-absorbent towel before taking off the booties and the wetsuit. Cold, wet hair is the quickest and easiest way to invite a chill. Once you're back into your thickest sweats and layers of jackets, jump into the car to blast the heat in lieu of a proper hair dryer. And bask in the success of tackling the cold Pacific without flinching for a second.
Happy New Year!
Happy 2014! I hope everyone had a great holiday season and your 2014 is off to a good start. Here's to more surfing and more time outdoors connecting with nature.
Here is a shot taken of me surfing a frothy and crisp December morning at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. I love surfing here when it is small and clean. No bigger than 3-4 foot is my preference. Lately the waves have been so incredible with offshore and sunny conditions with some enormous days which I love watching from the dunes. Whatever your local break and wave size preference is, hope you're surfing more in 2014!
Photo by Stephen Amato-Salvatierra.
Written by: Julie Cox
Next Generation
I'm stoked to have been able to coach 9 year old Caity in the waves lately. She is a smart young girl and I am so happy to be able to share in her surfing experiences. Let's support these young surfers by encouraging their stoke and giving more kids the opportunity to learn to surf. Here's to the next generation!